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Helm Switches

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tackyturtle
tackyturtle Member Posts: 3
My master helm switch does not engage and no power to devices connected to the dash. Fuse does not look like it has popped out. Bad toggle switch or fuse?

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  • cjjjdeck
    cjjjdeck Member, Moderator Posts: 1,872 ✭✭✭✭
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    If you have already tried resetting the Master Switch circuit breaker and nothing happened, there are fuses and/or circuit breakers located near you battery you can check.  Check any grounds wires you find for looseness or corrosion.  Finally, there are relays behind your instrument panel that sometimes can be a problem.  Below is the ABYC Wire Color Chart that can help you identify the various electrical systems in your boat.  If you give me you year and model I can send you the wiring diagrams for your boat.


    2012 SD237 I/O Mercruiser 5.0L MPI ECT/ Bravo 3
    2012 Load Rite Elite Tandem axle trailer

  • tackyturtle
    tackyturtle Member Posts: 3
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    Thanks for getting back with me. My Hurricane is a SD187 OB, year: 2014
  • tackyturtle
    tackyturtle Member Posts: 3
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    I did pull out the toggle switch and it fell apart. There are a number of these online. Is it a SPST, DPDT, or SPDT if it is a Master? Or some other type?
  • cjjjdeck
    cjjjdeck Member, Moderator Posts: 1,872 ✭✭✭✭
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    Those switches go by part number with is located somewhere on the switch.

    Here's the best source I have found when it comes to knowledge about Carling Switches, maybe you might give them a call:

    FP Marine

    You Tube Videos on Carling Switches:

    2012 SD237 I/O Mercruiser 5.0L MPI ECT/ Bravo 3
    2012 Load Rite Elite Tandem axle trailer

  • fosferglow
    fosferglow Member Posts: 2
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    If your horn works but nothing else does, your problem is most likely with the pair of relays found hanging off the dash harness.  The design has all the current running through piggy-backed spade connectors on the relays and each breaker - lots of potential for a high resistance connection to develop - especially in a marine environment.  Make sure the connections to the relays don't show corrosion and are tight.  If that doesn't fix it, the relays themselves may be bad.  Only one of the 2 relays has to work - but both should be functional so they share the full current load.  My 2012 SD187-OB developed high resistance connections at the relays and it was causing voltage fluctuations.  I had already added a battery disconnect switch (all boats should have these from the factory) so I decided to eliminate the master switch and relays altogether.  Now I have fewer single points of failure and voltage is steady.  Good Luck!