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    Trouble Getting on Plane

    seskinaseskina Member Posts: 3 ✭✭
    I have just purchased a 2008 Sun Deck 2000 with a 200 Yamaha.  I had Minn-Kota rear mount trolling motors mounted to the cavitation plate.  I love the boat but I just can't get it to plane unless it's going over 25 MPH.  At lower speeds, the bow rides so high that I have to stand to see what's ahead.  I would appreciate any suggestions. 
     
    Steve E.

    Comments

    • Ernest TErnest T Member, Moderator Posts: 268 ✭✭✭
      On my boat I did 2 things to improve time to plane, and to lower the planning speed:
      1. Went from a 3 bladed prop to a 4 blade
      2. Added trim tabs

      The prop gets the boat up on plane faster, and the trim tabs along with the prop help keep it on plane at a lower speed.  I went with a PowerTech prop after talking to one of their reps.  I also installed a set of Smart Tabs for the trim tabs, since they were cheap and easy to install, and work automatically with no need to run hydraulic lines, etc..  The tabs also help to reduce bow rise, and an added benefit on my boat is that they help smooth out the ride.


      2010 Hurricane 2100 (217) Sun Deck
      2008 Yamaha F150 TXR Outboard
      2008 Yamaha FX **** Cruiser Waverunner
    • DaveDave Maryville TNMember Posts: 30 ✭✭
      I also have the bow rise problem with my 217SD. My wife slides towards the stern when I try to get any speed up which makes her unhappy and makes for a not so happy outing. Ernist T, Did you install the trim tabs yourself and if so do you have to drill through the transom. I plan on purchasing the self adjusting trim tabs but I am concerned with drilling into the transom. Also, are instructions included as far as position on the hull/transom?
    • Ernest TErnest T Member, Moderator Posts: 268 ✭✭✭
      Dave wrote:

      I also have the bow rise problem with my 217SD. My wife slides towards the stern when I try to get any speed up which makes her unhappy and makes for a not so happy outing. Ernist T, Did you install the trim tabs yourself and if so do you have to drill through the transom. I plan on purchasing the self adjusting trim tabs but I am concerned with drilling into the transom. Also, are instructions included as far as position on the hull/transom?

      I installed them myself.  Pretty simple to do.  You don't have to drill all the way through the transom, only the depth of the screws, which are not that long.  I was a little concerned in that in several of the screw locations there was no wood backing when I drilled the holes.  I expected the transom to be a shell of fiberglass around a solid wood backing, but in some places it appeared to be hollow with just a shell of fiberglass.  The people at Nauticus assured me that this was OK.  I took an additional precaution of putting some 5200 adhesive in the screw holes and on the screws.  The instructions give a number of options for location, but you want to install them as far as possible to the outside of the transom.  I plan to work on the boat this Friday, and I will try to remember to take some photos, so you can get an idea of where mine are installed.  I had to bring them in some because of the shape of the hull.  2 things I learned that I will pass on: 1. Go with the stainless steel tabs rather than the plastic ones (they hold up better). 2. Go with the 60 lb. actuators instead of the 80 lb. ones, which are a little too stiff for this size boat (someone else on this forum gave me this tip).  I also installed the protroller bracket on mine so that I can lift them up out of the way when my boat is put on the fork lift at my marina.  It also may be needed for some trailers if the bunks extend past the hull.  This also makes it possible to "turn off" the trim tabs if you ever wanted to.

      I was concerned that the starboard tab was close to the ladder, but there is a couple inches clearance, so that was not a problem.


      2010 Hurricane 2100 (217) Sun Deck
      2008 Yamaha F150 TXR Outboard
      2008 Yamaha FX **** Cruiser Waverunner
    • DaveDave Maryville TNMember Posts: 30 ✭✭
      Thanks, all good info. I to will have to have my boat lifted with fork lift as it is kept at the marina. I assume the brand you purchased is Nauticus.
    • Ernest TErnest T Member, Moderator Posts: 268 ✭✭✭
      Here are some photos of the Smart Tabs installed on my boat:

      Tabs in retracted position for fork lift or trailering (something to add to your "after ride checklist":
      [image]http://ernest-t.smugmug.com/Family/Boating/i-6gf9cSg/0/XL/Trim-Tabs008-XL.jpg[/image]

      Tabs in down "active" position:
      [image]http://ernest-t.smugmug.com/Family/Boating/i-x4rBM3Q/0/XL/Trim-Tabs002-XL.jpg[/image]

      Stern Ladder:
      [image]http://ernest-t.smugmug.com/Family/Boating/i-srGSz65/1/XL/Trim-Tabs005-XL.jpg[/image]

      I offset the tab some towards the center of the boat to avoid the step in the transom where the bracket mounts:[image]http://ernest-t.smugmug.com/Family/Boating/i-LbJ5Bsq/0/XL/Trim-Tabs010-XL.jpg[/image]
      2010 Hurricane 2100 (217) Sun Deck
      2008 Yamaha F150 TXR Outboard
      2008 Yamaha FX **** Cruiser Waverunner
    • kgwagonerkgwagoner Member Posts: 1
      Try putting some weight (people) up forward.
    • tmills3202tmills3202 Member Posts: 20 ✭✭
      I also have a 2008 SD2000 with a Yamaha 200. I had the same problem. I have installed a pair SX9510-80 Smart Tabs and I tried them out today. I am very happy with the BIG improvement they made. Much faster to plane and will stay on plane at a slower speed and not near the bow rise. They work exactly as they are advertised.
    • callforbidscallforbids North Fort Myers, FLMember Posts: 60 ✭✭
      Ernest's transom looks different than my SD2000. I am experiencing the same planing problems.
       
      Could Tmills3202 take a couple pictures of his trim tabs and post to this forum. I think I need to do the same thing and would like to see where he mounted his trim tabs.
       
      I took my grandchildren tubing and the planing problem was difficult to deal with. They wanted to go faster, but if the SD2000 got on plane it was too fast for them. The tabs would help a lot. Thanks,
      Steve
    • callforbidscallforbids North Fort Myers, FLMember Posts: 60 ✭✭
      It is me again!
       
      The transom on the SD217 is definitely different than the SD2000 or SD2100. I am interested in knowing more about the stainless vs. the composite trim tabs and also whether the best choice is the 60bl or the 80bl models. Any help would ba appreciated.
    • Ernest TErnest T Member, Moderator Posts: 268 ✭✭✭
      I went with the stainless steel tabs after reading a number of posts in other forums about the composite tabs breaking.  There were no reported failures with the stainless steel tabs.  I do know a guy at my marina who is using the composite tabs with no problem.
       
      You might want to contact the folks at Nauticus and ask them which actuator they would recommend.  They were very helpful, and offered several tips for installation on my boat.  They also offered to let me trade in the 60 lb actuators for the 80 lb ones if I decided the 60s weren't enough.  Note that the system allows you to adjust the amount of pressure the actuators apply to the tabs, and you can also vary the angle the tab engages the water, so there are a number of ways to tweak the system to your specific needs. 
       
      I highly recommend them.  My boat is a different beast with them engaged:  less bow rise, lower planing speed, more stable ride, etc..
      2010 Hurricane 2100 (217) Sun Deck
      2008 Yamaha F150 TXR Outboard
      2008 Yamaha FX **** Cruiser Waverunner
    • rdevincenzirdevincenzi Member Posts: 1
      Seskina, this may be a dumb response, but do you have the motor (outboard) trimmed all the way down?  In the down position the boat should start to plane at around 18mph.  I say this because I tested the plan speed on my 201SS with a 150 Yamaha.  If the motor is left in the trim up position the tilt of the motor will drive the nose of the boat up.  I hope that helps.
    • callforbidscallforbids North Fort Myers, FLMember Posts: 60 ✭✭
      Ernest T,
       
      Could you tell me how you posted the pictures to this message? I cannot see where the upload image feature of this forum software is activated, and the FAQ section isn't any help.
       
      Any help would be appreciated.
       
      Steve
    • Ernest TErnest T Member, Moderator Posts: 268 ✭✭✭
       
      Ernest T,
       
      Could you tell me how you posted the pictures to this message? I cannot see where the upload image feature of this forum software is activated, and the FAQ section isn't any help.
       
      Any help would be appreciated.
       
      Steve
       
       
      As far as I know, you can't directly upload photos to this site. To post a photo, you need to upload your photos to a photo sharing website first, then when you click the photo attachment icon it will ask you the URL address of the location where the photo is stored.
       
      I use Smugmug, but there are many free photo sharing sites available. Flickr is on of the more popular ones.
       
      Hope this helps  
      2010 Hurricane 2100 (217) Sun Deck
      2008 Yamaha F150 TXR Outboard
      2008 Yamaha FX **** Cruiser Waverunner
    • tmills3202tmills3202 Member Posts: 20 ✭✭
       I had the motor trimmed all the way down and still too much and too long of bow rise
    • donmatdonmat Member Posts: 41 ✭✭
      I installed the Smart Tabs on my last boat which was a Stingray and they cured many problems including faster planing and less bow rise. With the deep V they also almost eliminated slow speed wander, which isn't a big problem on the Hurricanes. I haven't seen a need for them on my Hurricane but wouldn't hesitate to install them if I do.
    • donmatdonmat Member Posts: 41 ✭✭
      I would also like to point out a trick I learned when installing the tabs. If you drill in reverse (slowly) when starting the holes in the transom, it reduces the chipping that normally occurs to the adjacent fiberglass. I also cover the area with masking tape for the same reason. Mark the depth on your bit so you don't drill too deep. Use plenty of 5200 sealant on the screws and in the holes.
    • broncojim1126broncojim1126 Member Posts: 1
        Ditch the trolling motors. Did it plane better without the trolling motors? Bet thats your problem, Ive seen several boats have a hard time planing with the motor mounted trolling motors.
    • FlyingV5FlyingV5 Member Posts: 154 ✭✭✭
      I think you can safely transfer some weight forward as needed to get on plane at a slower speed. Most boats are built with the weight concentrated aft for safety reasons, so you won't stuff it into a big wave and disappear in a cloud of spray and fiberglass chunks. My FD196OB is stern-heavy with dual batteries and a fuel tank in the aft hold and it will put the bow way up in the air like you describe as it transitions from displacement mode. Not a serious issue, I just go a little faster and it climbs on out and levels off. I have a 4-stroke Yamaha 115hp motor with stock prop. Although with a previous boat (Deckboat brand 16ft. "Deckette") I moved the battery from the stern compartment to the bottom of the center console for the very reason you describe, I don't see the need for that. I anticipate that when I tow tubers, etc. some folks will need to sit in front for ballast. Can you stow some heavy gear in the forward hold? That would be better than adding tabs. Trim tabs, cavitation plate "wings" and all such devices work by redirecting water flow, so they rob you of some speed.
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